Driving on Cape Cod

I sort of ripped the Mid-Cape Highway in an earlier post. Actually, I don’t apologize for that. Now that I’ve been up and down it a few more times the past couple of days, I can see my memory did that road exactly as much justice as it deserved.

On the other hand, I did mention that the trees hid something magical. And, again, now that I’ve had the chance to explore the back roads again, I think I got that one right, too. In fact, I want to put together a book called something like Twenty-Minute Drives on Cape Cod. It wouldn’t sell (because who actually buys those kinds of books?), but it would be something I’d love to find on a bookshelf in one of the many, many rental cottages along Cape Cod Bay and the National Seashore.

Cape Cod Salt Marsh
A Cape Cod salt marsh from Bridge Road.

The first drive I’d write about is the stretch that runs from the intersection of Kingsbury Beach Road and Herringbrook, down to Bridge Road, over to Rock Harbor Road, and into Orleans Center (Main Street).

This 20-minute drive has almost everything I think about when I think of Cape Cod imagery. There are the Cape Cod style homes and cottages, the kettle ponds, the salt marshes, the old fishing docks, the old bed and breakfasts, the exclusive inns, the flowers, and a quaint downtown shopping/dining/arts center at the end of it. I try to make this drive five or six times a trip, because it just feels like Cape Cod to me and I want to remember it.

If I kept going on Main Street in Orleans, I’d run into Highway 28, which is also known as Orleans-Chatham Road. Turn right at the Nauset Middle School, and there’s EVERYTHING ELSE I think of when I think of Cape Cod.There on the right is the baseball field where the Cape Cod League Orleans Firebirds play every summer. On past that are some truly breathtaking Cape Cod style mansions, tucked into the bluffs and woods overlooking Crystal Lake, a handful of ponds, and Pleasant Bay. After a while, it becomes just plain Orleans Road, and you know that Chatham is just around the corner.

Nowadays, Chatham seems to be the Great White Shark capital of the U.S. There have been more than a few sightings lately because of the enormous seal population. So, at a certain intersection, rather than heading for busy, quaint (but touristy) Chatham Center, I headed straight for the Chatham Light.

No one is swimming in Chatham. The mayor can’t be happy.

What I found was reminscent of the scene from Jaws, when the beach at Amity Island was full on the Fourth of July but no one would go in the water. There were a few people on the beach near the Chatham Light, but I only saw one guy swimming for the half-hour I stuck around.

Still, across the street from the beach access stairs was the Chatham Light itself. I do love a good lighthouse, mostly because a lot of them have such interesting histories.

Chatham Light.

Come to think of it, maybe I’m on to something with this Twenty Minute Drive thing. I could start with Cape Cod, and move on to the next state. Maybe Twenty Minute Drives of California, followed by Twenty Minute Drives of Las Vegas, Arizona, Florida, etc. I smell a franchise.

(Hey. Hey, you. Don’t steal my idea, OK? This one’s all mine. Go get your own idea that no one will ever buy.)

Update (6:07 pm): I just saw on the news that they actually did order people out of the water at Chatham after another Great White sighting. I never saw a fin. But the seal population seems to have been thinned a bit.

Cape Cod:Day 1

And … we’re off. The annual family trip to the Cape. Neither MomScribe nor I can recall a more eagerly anticipated vacation. Not even Europe. Not even our honeymoon. This one, we really need.

Travel with kids … it’s hit or miss, isn’t it? We’re hitting today. Chris was up before 5:30, ready to get going. Jay took a bit more cajoling. It all came together quickly, though. We passed through security by 7:10 for our 8:30 flight to Providence.

Breakfast at Chili’s. Charge the iPhone. Get a refund for the seven plane tickets MomScibe bought by accident Friday night. Jump in line to board after the A group. Find four seats together …

What? Yes, seven excess tickets. She’s going to Massachusetts in September to visit her mom after a medical thing. Southwest had a flash sale, and she grabbed a great price. Thing is, when the order went through, it came back for EIGHT tickets. I discovered this when the itinerary popped into my inbox around 11 o’clock. And kept right on popping into my inbox.

Eight emails. Eight tickets. All for her. All to the same destination on the same day at the same time. All with different confirmation numbers.

I shook the approaching sleep away and dialed our home number. She answered downstairs.

Me: “Did you buy eight tickets from Southwest tonight for some reason?”

Her: “No. Why?”

Me: “Because you bought eight tickets from Southwest tonight for some reason. I got the emails to prove it.”

Her: “What?”

Me: “Exactly.”

So, after breakfast, she popped over to the Southwest service desk to get a refund. Turned out it was a system-wide glitch, that every customer who bought tickets through that sale had their order octupled for whatever reason.

While she messed around at the service desk, the boys and I got in line. This turn of events proved alarming for the 4-year-old.

Chris: “Where’s Mommy?”

Me: “She’s over getting money back for tickets she accidentally bought. She’ll be here before we board.”

Chris (staring in the direction of the desk but seeing nothing but the horrible vision of a week at Cape Cod without Mommy): “No she won’t!”

And that’s when he began to sprint back and forth between her location and mine in the line, becoming increasingly agitated. Tears welled and I actually felt the sound waves hit me before I heard it.

“MOM MEEEE!!!!”

Me: “Chris! Get over here NOW.”

Chris: “No Mommy’s not here she’s over there where’s Mommy we can’t leave yet where’s Mommy Mommy Mommy MOM MEEEEE!”

She made it. He settled down. I guess we won’t have to pay for those other tickets.

We’ll be in Eastham by mid-afternoon.

We really, really need this one.

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The Places I Saw, the Things I Did

I was a sportswriter from 1986 until 2010. During that time, I worked primarily for the Tampa Tribune in Florida. When I was hired there in 1992, there were about 65 people on the sports staff. After the most recent round of layoffs, there are, by my count, seven sportswriters working at the Tribune today.

It’s as good an example of the demise of newspapers as you’ll find. Just 20 years ago, sportswriting was an invigorating career, tough but generally fair, relatively safe from the whims of the economy. Today, it is a dying* industry.

*Some might quibble with that characterization, preferring the term “evolving” to “dying.” I’m sure the folks who built horse-drawn carriages when Henry Ford came along made a similar myopic argument.

There is a lot I miss about the business.

The people, of course. Sports journalists are almost all adolescents at heart, with all of the quirks and charm of that species. This is not a knock on sportswriters. Far from it, in fact. I’m not calling all sportswriters immature (although many of them certainly were – and are), and I’m not calling all of them irresponsible pups (although, again, if the shoe fits, many of them will certainly chew it to tatters). I’m saying that as a group, the sportswriters I knew (and know) combine an endearing eagerness to please, an astonishing lack of self-awareness, outward confidence and a burning desire to know that makes them as energetic a professional class as you’re likely to come across. Sportswriters are not necessarily poets, but they care deeply about the written word. They are story tellers and historians. They are witnesses, and I was one of them for a while.

Big Ben and Parliament, London. Taken as the clock struck 10.

My sons, one in kindergarten and one in preschool, know virtually nothing of my life as a sportswriter. They don’t know that I was fortunate enough to sit in press boxes all over the world, watch games, and write about it for a living. There’s a lot more to it, of course, like cultivating sources and breaking news and competing for stories. And on, and on. The heart of it, though, was being there when something happened that was worth writing about.

And one of the things I miss most about the business is the very reason I’m glad I don’t do it anymore: travel. There was nothing better than going places and seeing things. And, in my opinion, there is nothing worse for a sportswriting father than going places and seeing things that don’t involve his family. There are plenty of sportswriter parents who manage to meet the extraordinary demands of the career while rearing a family. Good on them for that. But it’s not the life I wanted. I didn’t want to miss my sons’ formative years. I wanted to be here for them. So, I asked off a pretty nice beat, covering a major league baseball team, and moved to general assignment sports at the end of the 2005 baseball season. I was laid off three years later. I managed to scrape along on freelance sportswriting work for 19 months before landing a full-time job with an Internet marketing company. And that was that.

And even though I want to be here for my kids and wife – have to be here for them – part of me misses the road. I look back now and think of all the places I saw, all the things I did, and sometimes it seems like a dream. The list below is just a sample of the opportunities the job gave me to broaden my horizons. I want my boys to know I did these things, saw these things. They’re listed in no particular order:

  • I stood in front of the Aztec Sun Stone at the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
  • I saw snow-capped Mt. Fuji from the deck of a U.S. Army Blackhawk helicopter flying from Tokyo to Yokohama.

    Mt. Fuji from a Blackhawk helicopter.

  • I visited Monument Park by myself – just me and the ghosts of Gehrig, Ruth, and the rest – at old Yankee Stadium.
  • I walked inside the Green Monster at Fenway Park.
  • I saw the Chicago skyline at night from the 96th floor observation deck of the Hancock Center.
  • I stood at the corner of Hollywood and Vine.
  • I sat through a 5.8 earthquake in San Diego.
  • I crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and explored Muir Woods.
  • I drove to the end of the road up Mt. Rainier.

    Golden Gate Bridge and fog.

  • I stood in Times Square.
  • I saw Queen Street in Toronto.
  • I saw a forest of green and gold banners amid the smoky haze of hundreds of grill fires in the parking lot of Lambeau Field.
  • I went to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland.
  • I visited the Sixth Floor Museum at the Texas Book Depository in Dallas.
  • I lost way too much money at the MGM Grand casino in Detroit. And at Harrah’s in New Orleans. And at the airport in Las Vegas. And at the Potawatomi Casino in Milwaukee. And the Casino du Lac Leamy in Hull, Quebec. Sigh.
  • I stood on the edge of the world, also known as the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, where I didn’t notice I wasn’t breathing for at least a minute. That’s when I learned what it meant when something takes your breath away.

    The Grand Canyon.

  • I strolled through the Harvard campus during a bitterly cold spring morning.
  • I stood under the St. Louis arch.
  • I walked the length and breadth of the Manassas battleground in Virginia.
  • I walked the corridors of the Pro Football Hall of Fame.
  • I got lost in the French Quarter.
  • I saw a family of beavers waddling along the Ottawa River right in the heart of the Canadian capital.
  • I saw Puget Sound, the Olympic Mountains and the sunset from the top of the Space Needle.
  • I breathed the sacred smoke and marveled at the ancient architecture of the Hexagonal Shrine at the Sensoji Asakusa Kannon Buddhist Templein Tokyo.

    The gardens at the New Otani Hotel, Tokyo.

  • I saw the Rosetta Stone behind its glass enclosure at the British Museum.
  • I stood (reverently) on Charles Dickens’ grave at Westminster Abbey.

I saw all that, and I did all that, and much more, and met so, so many people, because I was a sportswriter for a time. Mind you, it wasn’t all a Rick Steves travel documentary. I managed to do most of these things because I made a point of playing the tourist when I visited all these places. It wasn’t the cool thing to do, I know. But I had to do it. It meant waking up early – really early – most of the time and getting out of the hotel room on limited (if any) sleep. It meant going it alone, more often than not. Then it meant grabbing a quick lunch and heading to work. I did it because I was almost obsessively curious about the world around me, and because I just … wanted to see what there was to see.

Westminster Abbey, London, resting place of Charles Dickens.

So, I’ve seen it now. And, yeah, I miss it sometimes. And I wish I could somehow upload those memories into my sons’ young brains. But I guess it’s OK that these are my memories, my experiences, because the boys will create their own. One thing I know. No matter how much I miss it, no matter how much I wish I could walk along Fisherman’s Wharf or browse the historic shelves at City Lights Book Store one more time, I know that I’m where I need to be. Where I want to be. I’m home.